Aiyaiyai – it has been several months since I’ve posted. I apologize. I’m going to blame the usual life-gets-busy excuses: travel, school, work, laziness, etc. But here’s a taste of one of those excuses!
Over the winter holidays, I spent a little over 3 weeks in Taiwan and Korea, mostly Taiwan for family stuff…. and eating.
Huashan Market – home of Fu Hang Dou Jiang 阜杭豆漿. Have you ever heard of this place? Neither have I. Have you ever been to this place? Neither had I until my most recent trip to Taiwan!! Damn, it is delicious.
Now, anywhere you go in Taiwan, you will find the typical Taiwanese breakfast of a sao bing, something like a sesame flatbread (燒餅), wrapped you tiao, a sort of “Taiwanese donut” (油條), dipped in sweetened dou jiang, soy bean milk (豆漿). Fu Hang is the best place to eat it, though.
Doesn’t this line out of the door and around the corner already fill you with anticipation? Uh, yes, the restaurant is on the second floor of the Huashan Market.
The menu doesn’t have anything more than 54NT? That’s less than $2 USD! Should I have the stomach for it, I would probably go everyday on top of trying to eat every delicious thing available in Taiwan… but I just couldn’t eat it all. There’s too much to eat in Taiwan! Aiyah.
So Fu Hang has this amazing kiln oven. I want one. The folks there roll out fresh dough with chopped scallions and cut amazingly fluffy sao bing, then stick them on the innards of this fire-y magic oven.
As the sao bing cooks in the kiln, they crisp up wonderfully on the outside while staying spongy, chewy and soft on the inside. These are also nice fat, thick pieces of doughy goodness too. Okay, okay, you can also order skinny ones, but why would you do that? More is better in this case!
On the other side of the kitchen are the yuo tiao cooks. Fresh dough stretched into long strips and battered in hot oil. Fried to a perfect crisp on the outside, and doughy, bready goodness on the inside. My mouth salivates as I type…
As you move, somewhat quickly actually, through the line… around the corner on the street, into the building, up the stairs, through the small doorway and finally into the restaurant nearing the order counter… there are several ladies waiting to take your order. I want to say we waited about 30-45 minutes from around the corner of the building entrance on the street level? We were there on a Saturday (much busier).
They are quick – order from the first gal that pays attention to you. And they set stuff on your tray while you are still entranced by everyone in the kitchen. Sao bing you tiao with egg and a cold sweetened soy milk – my go-to Taiwanese breakfast order.
Cold sweetened soy milk above and below is my fat sao bing you tiao with egg.
Ready to jump on the next flight to Taipei yet? I also got an order of luobo si bing, shredded daikon bun (I think that’s my best translation) (絲餅蘿蔔). You know… order first and eat later… should I ever get the rare feeling of hunger (note the sarcasm as I am almost never hungry in Taiwan but always wanting to eat).
Oh, those things on the right hand side made of rice? Fan tuan (飯糰) – rice rolls… dried sweetened pork and pickled vegetables wrapped in sticky rice. They are another Taiwanese street eat – tastes better than it sounds? Another snack we thought we’d order for later…
A dan bing (蛋餅) (egg wrap with like… Chinese tortilla?) sits on that white plate.
My dad ordered this salty soy bean milk. It was warm and had chunks of you tiao and chopped scallions in it. Not bad, but wasn’t my thing.
Nom, nom, nom. My half-eaten (but not for long) sao bing yuo tiao with egg. Alright, I must sign off of the interwebs… I’m getting hungry and Utah doesn’t have this stuff. *sigh* Time for bed.